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Container Gardening introduction, by Sue Pallett
What
you need to know before planting
Other
garden features - furniture, statues, fountains, lighting & more
Filling
and planting into containers
Planting
out
Feeding
Container
aftercare
Growing
your own plants
Aromatic
plants
Dwarf
edging plants
Suggestions
for plants to train along fences, up walls or over trellis
Plants
for a shady position
Ferns
Shrubs
for growing in large containers
Edging
or ground-cover plants
Specimen
plants
Roses
Reliable
perennial plants
Heathers
and other ericaceous lime hating subjects
Trees
Suggested
Winter colour combinations
Growing
Fruit
Growing
Vegetables
How
to Contact Sue via email.
Sue's
gardening related Links.
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I have compiled these pages of general garden information in the hope that you will be tempted to try a hobby that will bring you immense satisfaction, fulfillment and pleasure. I can't say that it won't be a bit frustrating at times when plants don't do what we think they should, despite the fact that we are doing everything the textbooks say. Often, the best way to learn, as I have done, is use the books for general information, but get out into your garden, put your hands and the plants into the soil and learn in the only way possible, by getting your hands dirty while learning from the plants themselves as they grow, they will be your best teachers.
There is nothing more satisfying than feeling the sun or gentle rain on your face as you wonder around your garden, examining all those specimens that you have nurtured or created.
I talk about growing plants in containers, then go on to discuss other garden features and how to plant out your garden borders successfully.
I won't say any more now, just go on reading and discover what's there yourself. I hope that my enjoyment, love, and enthusiasm for this art, come across.
Good gardening.
Sue Pallett.
Growing plants in containers will give you a unique opportunity to learn about and enjoy collections of plants or individual specimens close at hand, without the necessity to prepare the ground first, as once your tubs and pots are prepared correctly they will more or less look after themselves with only a little annual care and maintenance. You will also be able to create ideal planting environments for those subjects which need an acid soil like camellias, rhododendrons and some heathers and woodland plants, by using an ericaceous compost.
Throughout the following pages I have given planting suggestions to create all year round interest, provide an opportunity for growing, and maintaining some truly wonderful exhibits.
It is important to make sure that the containers used for planting are large enough to support and maintain the small trees, shrubs and plants, both in width, height and depth. A container which is going to be the home for something that will reach five or six feet in height, needs to be at least two feet high and one-and-a-half feet in diameter. In fact, if you can get hold of them, wooden half barrels would be ideal for planting a small tree or large shrub. Ideally, tubs of between one- and- a-half feet and two feet in diameter should not be planted with more than three specimens, ensuring that there is something tall at the back with evergreen or trailing plants to complement anything that is going to lose its leaves in winter. Avoid using pots that are under 9 inches in diameter as these will dry out far too quickly in hot weather. The stability of all containers is very important, they must be large enough to prevent them blowing over in high winds. It is a good idea to always make sure that the pots are in their permanent position before they are filled and planted as it will be difficult to move them when they are full of compost and planted up.
The most common materials that containers are made of are plastic and polypropylene, these are lightweight, inexpensive and come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours, but cheap plastic can crack. Fibreglass is lightweight but expensive and can splinter. However, it is generally durable. Clay and pottery containers are very attractive particularly if ornamented or textured, but can be expensive and smaller pots do dry out more rapidly than other types. Large terracotta pots always look classy and are timeless in appearance, blending naturally into most settings. Always choose glazed or frost-proof pots if made of clay, making sure that they are large enough so that they do not dry out in hot weather as these earthenware planters absorb and hold the heat of the sun. Wooden troughs half barrels and containers are fairly inexpensive but will need a coat of preservative every year or so to prevent them from rotting and deteriorating. Reconstituted stone and concrete containers are available in all shapes and sizes and are often interestingly textured. They are also very heavy and extremely durable. If you decided that you didn't want several containers on your patio you could always have one or two long troughs in stone as they would probably be very much in keeping with the ambience and history of a property of character. You also have the option of putting up wall troughs made of wrought iron that can be lined with durable black plastic liners or ready made wooden or plastic window boxes then either filled with small heathers and evergreen plants to give all year round colour, or summer bedding from May to the first frosts in late September early October. Be sure to put up any wall troughs in a position and at a height where they can not be accidentally walked into by anyone passing.
Another option, of course, is not to have containers on a paved area at all but to remove a slab at regular intervals and after ensuring that there is an adequate amount of soil available by digging down a good foot-and-a-half or so, putting in climbing plants or shrubs. Climbers will have to be grown against walls and will need good adequate support by way of trellis attached to the wall with staples that the plants can be threaded through. Many plants like ivy and virginia creeper are self clinging. It is possible that the larger more vigorous varieties could damage brickwork but it is unlikely that the smaller leaved types that I mention will do this.
For Patio planting, Raise all flat bottomed containers slightly to allow air to circulate around them and enable any surplus water to drain away. Purpose made Stick on or screw on feet can be bought from garden centres or diy stores. All containers must have adequate holes in the base for drainage. As the larger tubs and pots will need to be watered once a day during hot weather, with smaller troughs and clay pots needing even more water (perhaps twice daily), in very hot weather, particularly initially while the plants become established. If excess water does not drain away, plant roots will rot, foliage will die back and I am afraid the plants will perish. The same things can happen with under watering, foliage will go limp and the containers will feel lighter in weight if lifted. The way to tell if a tub needs watering is to dig down a little way with a small hand fork and see if the compost just below the surface is moist, if it is you know that the plant has enough moisture. Just as much damage can be done by over watering as under watering. The only way to learn about this is by trial and error and experience. I would recommend the installation of an outside tap. If this isn't possible perhaps you could position a water butt near to a down pipe with a plastic pipe inserted into it to collect the rain water. If the butt can be raised and has a tap attached it would be easy to fill watering cans from it and supply your tubs that way. Less water needs to be given during Winter, as the planters only need to be kept just moist, their water requirements being much less. Protection may need to be given to some plants to guard them against frost. This can easily be achieved by wrapping a double thickness of bubble plastic sheeting around the outside of the pots for the Winter period. Other protection can be used; a layer of bark chippings, Hessian, straw, can be added to the containers for this purpose.
After planting up the containers I would suggest adding water retaining granules or gel, many types of which are available from garden centres, as these hold so many times their own weight in water to help keep compost moist during the summer months. The thicker or more dense the outer structure of the container the cooler the roots will be kept in Summer and the less chance the root balls will have of freezing during Winter. The heavier the construction the more stable will be the finished planted result, giving weight and stability to a taller tree or shrub. I would suggest using JI.3 potting compost for all large tubs, peat or grit can then be added to create ideal planting conditions for specific specimens. Alpines will need JI.2 with added grit. All these can be bought from garden centres and diy stores, but be warned, soil based compost like this is very heavy and you will probably need more of it than you think to fill large planters. Why not experiment a little first by moving empty containers around the patio and garden so that the right decision can be made as to their final positions before filling them. It would be possible to mount large pots and tubs on castors so that they could be moved from place to place, although this may leave them open to theft!
It may also be nice to position some garden furniture in a sunny spot so that you can have a meal outside and enjoy your garden.
There are countless types available at varying prices. Wrought iron tables with matching canopy and chairs in a nice relaxing garden green are fairly stable and not too light so that they will stay put when it is windy. Padded seat cushions are available for the chairs. You could have a bird table made from wood attached to a wooden post which could be cemented into position to make it stable. Hang a squirrel-proof nut feeder from it and enjoy the birds singing and scrabbling around for seed. I have a bird table made of wood with a little thatched roof above, It doesn't take birds long to eat any seed I put out for them. Wild bird seed is readily available from any pet shop.
Garden statues, miniature versions of old fashioned cottages, mills, forges and castles are also available to name but a few, grouped together they add interest and act as a reminder of times gone by.
Great sensual pleasure can be gained from a small patio fountain. These are self-contained units requiring very little maintenance. They are readily available from garden centres, featuring statues and sculptures of various types and sizes with an internal cavity to house a small pump to circulate the water. The sound of running water can be used as a sound beacon, enabling you to orientate yourself around the garden. A bubble fountain is constructed so that water comes up through the centre of large smooth pebbles. The sound of water over stones brings an air of tranquility. I must add a word of caution here, water and electricity do not mix. A professional electrician must be consulted and employed to install such a unit according to statutory safety regulations. It goes without saying that a residual current device (circuit breaker) must always be installed to monitor any sudden changes in the electricity supply. There are also small, very decorative solar powered water features that will give between 4 and 8 hours of gentle sound per day, , according to the cloud cover. Providing that the solar panel isn't over shadowed by foliage. It will automatically recharge its battery and operate using the sun's natural rays, as if by magic).
Solar lighting is also very popular and fairly inexpensive requiring no wiring and the minimum of installation. Working in the same way as the solar water features, they recharge their integral battery during the day and automatically come on at dusk, giving between 4 and 8 hours of light per night.
Another tub could house a bog garden that will simply need very moist garden soil and suitable plants. Suggested plants for this environment which will also attract wildlife such as birds and insects are: Astilbes, hostas, native marsh marigold, native flag iris, water forgetmenot, water mint. Dierama (an evergreen plant which flowers in Summer), Hemp, agrimoney, water figwart, bronze fennel to attract goldfinches, borage which attracts greenfinches. There are of course, many more. Always check when you buy your plants that they will, when fully grown, not outgrow their allotted containers. Something that seems very small originally, can soon grow into a large specimen.
Commercially produced compost bins are readily available but it could be fun to make one and position it somewhere within easy reach of the house. A wooden or mesh compost maker could be assembled, minimum size three feet by three feet, to which kitchen vegetable waste, soft garden clippings and lawn mowings should be added, the idea of recycling and helping the environment I feel is good. It could be constructed of stout wooden posts and chicken wire with a covering over the top or if made of wood a removable lid fitted. All that is needed is for the heap to be kept moist and for a compost activator to be added according to manufacturers instructions, and good compost can be made in six to twelve months depending on environmental conditions!
Urns or ornamental planters could be used inside your porch or conservatory to grow things like figs, avocado, date or ornamental palms, citrus trees or even a small banana tree. They will positively thrive if sprayed regularly to give them a moist atmosphere. Planters can be useful to soften hard surfaces like the step-down to a lawn as long as they are positioned where there is no risk of people tripping up or having a fall.
A good loam-based (soil-based) compost should be used for all the large containers as this is heavier and more substantial, with more of a water retaining capability than peat-based composts or their substitutes which will dry out very quickly in hot weather.
Extra peat and composts for particular plants needing special environments can then easily be catered for, i.e. ericaceous subjects and alpines etc.
Before filling planters with compost, ensure that they have their adequate drainage holes. They should then be lined with heavy duty plastic sheeting with drainage holes in the bottom, as this will help to retain moisture and give some protection to plants during very cold weather. A couple of inches of pea shingle or broken crocks or large stones should then be added to give adequate drainage, before the containers are filled to about an inch-and-a-half below the rim with compost. Then firm the compost lightly before watering well and leaving to settle so that the contents finds its own level and acclimatizes to the temperature of the surrounding environment. Extra compost can now be added if necessary to re-fill the pot to the same depth as above before specimens are added.
Now its time to make your own selection of plants, I can only recommend some of my own favourites, but remember there are hundreds to choose from and explore. April or May would be a good time to think about planting. and just right to go and see any new stock of plants at a local garden centre or nursery. Larger establishments tend to carry a wide variety of plants but speaking from personal experience, often a local family run garden centre will stock plants that they can personally recommend that will grow well in the locality, their plants have often survived in pots outside during the previous winter and will be well used to changes in climactic conditions that will suit your garden well. Personal service is gladly given allowing you an ideal opportunity to have a look at some of the plants I mention so that you can make your own choice and bring home your favourites. The proprietors may also offer a home delivery service if you are buying quite a number of plants. As a rule I have found that larger garden centres sometimes charge a little extra for their plants to cover the cost of overheads, while your local nursery gives its plants first priority. summer bedding plants can be bought by the strip in polystyrene modules ready for planting in tubs or window boxes. in strips of four or five plug plants. These include, geraniums, petunias, lobelia, busy lizzie, gazania, fuschia, and the list goes on and on. Begonias, lilies, dahlias and other summer flowering bulbs and things grown from bulbs and corms tend to be more expensive as they can be dried off, over wintered and planted up again the next year. Annual summer bedding plants can also be bought in small pots in a more advanced state of growth with their flower buds already in evidence, ready to plant straight out into garden borders. There are a tremendous number of plant varieties and colours to choose from to create your own colour scheme for the summer.
As a rough guide, remembering that garden centre and nursery prices will vary, Ground cover plants can cost anything from 10 to 15 pounds each. Perennial plants, 6 to 10 pounds. Bulbs, from thirty pence each up to 1.99 for something that is rare or difficult to grow.
Shrubs, from 10 to 20 pounds each. Small trees, 15 to 40 pounds or more for that rare specimen.
Many garden centres now supply pot grown plants and shrubs that can be planted out in tubs or garden borders at almost any time of the year except in very frosty conditions.
With the exception of bulbs and summer bedding plants, When you arrive home with your new purchases, if the compost in any of the pots feels dry, immerse them, the right way up, to the top of each pot where the stems meet the soil, in a bucket of water and soak them well for several hours then allow them to drain well before planting, this applies particularly to trees and shrubs, it will help to prevent the plants from drying out too quickly while they become established. If the plants that you buy have been grown in a sheltered greenhouse, as is often the case with summer bedding plants, always harden them off before planting out, by leaving them outside in their pots for a couple of hours and then bringing them back inside a well lit cool greenhouse, shed, garage or unheated conservatory for the first two or three days, then gradually increase the time that they are outside until they are left out for 24 hours a day. this should take about a fortnight. By this time they will be used to outside temperatures and are ready for planting. when carrying out this process, always be aware of the possibility of frosts in May or September.
Ensuring that your plant pots are now in their permanent positions, filled with the appropriate compost, Make a hole in the container that is exactly the same size as the pot in which the plant is growing, use a spare pot of the same size for reference and bury it to the depth of the empty pot's rim. Take out the empty pot and you will be left with a hole which is exactly the right size. Remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole made by the spare pot. Firm the plant in well by pressing down with your hands on top of the soil on either side of the plant. With trees and shrubs this needs to be done quite firmly to remove any air pockets from the soil, so that they are encouraged to spread out their roots ready to absorb the water and nutrients that you will be giving them. A layer of pea gravel can be spread over the top of the compost to give a pleasing appearance and to act as a mulch to retain water and prevent too many weed seeds from germinating. The use of garden soil to fill your containers for permanent planting is not generally recommended as it contains far too many weed seeds, harmful bacteria and is of very little nutritional value.
I could have suggested adding granular or powdered organic slow release fertilizers to tubs housing trees and shrubs but because of their limited size and the necessity for working out just how much of these chemicals to add per footage, I feel happier advising on the application of feed spikes and tablets applied according to manufacturer's instructions. These can always be topped up with diluted liquid tomato food for flowering plants which will be necessary to encourage good results when plants are flowering. You will see that I mention this again later on. These products are available from diy stores or garden centres and will give feeding instructions on the bottle or packet.
The compost can remain in the containers for many years although the top couple of inches will need to be removed annually and fresh compost added to give extra nourishment to the plants and encourage vitality. Care must be taken not to damage surface roots when doing this. It would help to use a small trowel.
It might be a good idea to have a go at growing a few plants of your own? Seeds or bulbs can be grown on a warm windowsill or in a greenhouse earlier in the year, ready for planting in gaps in containers to add Summer or Winter colour. There is nothing more thrilling than to watch a seed or bulb grow, just by adding it to compost, watering, then sitting back to wait! I will be glad to help with planting and care instructions for any plants mentioned here, but I would be presenting you with a huge tome if I were to do so! What I will say is, make sure that each annual or perennial grown, is looked after according to packet or label instructions, hardened off correctly, then planted out in its required position, to encourage it to give of its best. I will be glad to help with this. I am sure that your local nursery that sold you the plants would gladly give advice at the time that you buy your plants from them. For example, pansies or busy lizzie who like some shade will not flower well in full sun, while geraniums won't flower properly if they are grown in shade.
Begonias, petunias, pansies, geraniums, nasturtiums, fuchsias, swanriver daisy, nemecia and many other annual Summer flowering plants can always be relied upon to give a long flowering season. Many of these are scented on warm Summer evenings. All that they will need is regular dead- heading to encourage new flowers. Nicotiana( the flowering tobacco plant) is scented and can be used to fill a few gaps in containers in early Summer, you can also sprinkle in a few seeds of night-scented stock. Although the flowers are insignificant, the evening fragrance will be unbeatable! The above mentioned bedding plants can be bought very readily from nurseries and garden centres, so never worry if those home-grown seeds or plants do not survive. Any of the above bedding plants can be added to containers or hanging baskets to give extra all long summer colour. Seeds of many hardy annual flowers can simply be added directly to containers early in the season to grow and flower.
Aromatic plants attract bees so care must be taken when they are in flower. Herbs can be grown over one or several seasons for colour and scent. Sage and thyme have varying coloured foliage and different scents. Marjoram has several varieties and is very fragrant, golden marjoram has a lemon scent and like thyme, will be ideal for scent and colour at the side or front of a container. Bush basil needs a sheltered sunny spot to do well, in fact, in my own experience, it should be grown inside and planted out in a container in the summer, the scent is clovey and wonderful. it will only last for one season but is worth trying just for scent alone. A wide choice of mint varieties are available. Apple, pineapple, spearmint, ginger mint, eau de cologne to name but a few. Always be sure to grow each plant in a pot of its own to prevent it from spreading and invading other plants. Tarragon, chamomile, chives, parsley and lemon balm are familiar herbs to most people. The latter can be invasive and may need thinning out periodically. Rosemary will grow to about three feet, it may need a place at the back of a pot but is a must for any herb garden as the scent is lovely and the plant should last for several seasons, retaining its pinnate leaves during Winter. You could always plant several of the above-mentioned herbs in one large pot. Another tall, feathery fragrant plant that I would never be without is Fennel, it will also need a pot of its own because it grows to about five feet and although it will die down in winter new shoots will grow again in spring. It should grow undisturbed for several seasons.
Lavender has to be included for scent. 'Old English' lavender has a good perfume as does 'Hidcote.' Santolina (cotton lavender), is very aromatic with yellow pom-pom flowers in mid summer. Unlike the ordinary lavender it does not die down in Winter. French lavender has a unique smell too. If you are feeling adventurous and are prepared to give it a sheltered spot over Winter, a bay tree grown in its own tub will look splendid.
Herbs are relatively short-lived, in comparison to trees and shrubs, becoming bare stemmed and woody after several seasons, therefore provision will need to be made for their replacement after several years. This can either be done by buying new plants, taking cuttings or growing new plants from seed.
Perennial Summer and Winter flowering bulbs can also be grown to give colour to a display for many years. Tulips, crocuses, daffodils, grape hyacinth will give Spring colour for many years before they become overcrowded and need thinning out when they will once again continue to give reliable spring colour. You will know when this happens as you will get leaves and no flowers. For Summer try Tigridia, Galtonia, lilyum regali, iris latifolia, lilyum enchantment, gladiolus natus, achidanthra bicolor murielli, gladiolus kalydanthus, narini bowdenii, crocosmia. If you plant a selection of these, you will have colour right through to the Autumn. The majority of Summer flowering bulbs are not Winter hardy and will need replacing annually, but the Autumn flowering crocus and narini bowdenii should grow from year to year. Many have quite distinct fragrances. Perennial bulbs will be happy to share their containers with shrubs or Summer bedding plants.
Please make sure that all bulbs are planted to their correct depth, most needing to be buried to twice their depth with the exception of lilies and begonias, it isn't possible for me to describe all the planting instructions here.
The fronts of the containers can be filled with thyme, alyssum, dwarf pinks, both pinks, white allysum and thyme are fragrant and if the house leek, (semperviren), or saxifrage are included it will make the display very interesting to touch. Simply add a little more grit for drainage. These plants will also be good for trailing over the edges of containers to soften the hard lines of a solid construction.
Almost all Clematis are suitable for growing in containers. Most varieties will look bare and straggly during Winter so they should be planted along side other shrubs or Climbers. Clematis Viticella varieties, Clematis Alpina is Spring flowering. Clematis 'Vyvyan Pennell', violet purple flowers, July to September needs very little pruning. Clematis Tangutica has yellow bell-shaped flowers in August. If you fancy growing a novelty variety, try Clematis Orientalis the 'orange peel' clematis. Different varieties will need either pruning lightly or cutting back to within a couple of inches of the previous year's growth, at differing times. It will be easier to advise when they have been selected. The soil must be fertile and moist. They like their stems to be in the shade. It would be best to plant smaller specimens around them. They like their leaves in the sun. Always plant them about 4 inches deeper than they were in the original pot to encourage new growth and help guard against clematis wilt.
Jasminum Nudiflorum, the (Winter flowering jasmine) has bright yellow flowers on bare stems over a long period, it needs cutting back to within a few inches of the old wood after flowering when it will produce its new leaves, its very hardy. Many ivies give colourful evergreen cover. Hedera Helix 'Goldheart' with green leaves with a yellow centre. 'buttercup' has all yellow leaves. these and many other ivies can be left to trail and scramble where necessary, all they will need is clipping back in Spring and Summer when they have filled their allotted space.
As with many variegated plants, a sunny spot will bring out the colours in their leaves. The passion flower (Passiflora Caerulea), has fascinating flowers. The cup-and-saucer plant Cobea scandens is a very interesting annual climber which flowers in Summer. The annual sweetpea also grows and flowers in one season, as does the ornamental gourd (Cucurbita Pepo). The latter is grown for its ornamental fruit which are interesting to handle and can be dried. These climbing and trailing plants are perfect if you decide to take out slabs as well as or instead of having containers but bear in mind that some of them, with the exception of the small leaved variegated ivies, will need quite large homes!
Ferns are ideal plants for containers in a shady spot and look lovely in combination with hostas. Add something evergreen here though so that leaf colour will still be there during Winter, like bouginia or dwarf conifers.
Asplenium Scolopendrium Crispum 'hearts tongue fern', with strap-shaped leaves with ruffled edges. Adiantum venustum 'maidenhair fern' has delicate feathery foliage. Athyrium Filix Femina Frizzella the 'tatting fern' with lace-like leaves.
Philadelphus (mock orange) loses its leaves during Winter but makes up for this by producing masses of white, orange-blossom scented flowers in June, try Philadelphus (belle etoile or one of the many smaller varieties that will not grow more than three or four feet tall. I have one myself and although the textbooks say the scent is orange, I would say it is more like ripe banana! Some of the old stems will need to be removed immediately after flowering, and healthy shoots cut back to half their length in early spring. This is a very reliable shrub. Syringa (lilac) is deciduous, losing its leaves in winter, and flowers fragrantly at the same time, Syringa velutina (the Korean lilac grows to about 4 feet in height with lavender-pink flowers in May. This has a lovely sweet scent. The deciduous viburnums all have scented flowers, but 'Watanabe' has the added attraction of fascinating tapestry-like foliage and white scented flowers in May and June. Viburnum bodnantense 'Dawn' has fragrant flowers on bare stems in Winter, remove damaged or old branches after flowering. This is quite an upright shrub and will do well against a wall. Elaeagnus is evergreen and although it can grow into a large shrub it can be pruned into shape and kept under control, by simply removing whole branches at the base. It is well worth having for its scented flowers in October-November, leaf scent and Winter colour. Remove any all green shoots immediately. The leaves of elaeagnus Pungens 'Maculata' are evergreen and splashed with bright yellow with an aromatic scent. Choisya Ternata (mexican orange) variety 'sundance' also has scented leaves giving Winter colour, although this shrub is also endowed with the added bonus of producing starry, scented, white flowers in May, then sporadically throughout the Summer. Remove any all green shoots that appear, to prevent the plant reverting to an all green state. Personally I would not be without either or both of these subjects to brighten the Winter garden.
Cotoneaster 'horizontalis' maximum size two to three feet could be grown between taller shrubs. It loses its leaves during Winter but makes up for this by producing red berries in Autumn and a mat of tiny green leaves in Summer. It is commonly known as the fish bone cotoneaster because of its leaf pattern. Cotoneaster dammeri is evergreen and low-growing. Cotoneaster conspicuus 'decorus' is one of the loveliest, small plants. Another reliable evergreen low, spreading plant is Euonymus Radicans 'silver queen'. Simply cut out any unwanted shoots if it becomes untidy or too large for its allocated space.
Mahonia 'charity' is very hardy and reliable, growing to a maximum height of six feet. The flat, divided, holly-like leaves are topped with spikes of yellow scented flowers from December to early April. This plant will need little care, thriving happily in almost any good compost, any unwanted shoots can be cut out from the base of the shrub in the Spring. These leaves are prickly very much like holly but it is extremely sculpturally interesting and the spikes of yellow scented flowers will last for a long time. A couple of feet smaller is perovskia the (Russian sage) sometimes mistaken for a lavender bush but its long spikes of blue flowers and upright stems clad with grey leaves which are finely cut, easily distinguish it. Another feature which will identify it is its very strong sage-like fragrance. Only one variety is likely to be available and that is the four feet tall August-September flowering Perovskia atriplicifolia 'blue spike'. Phlomis (Jerusalem sage) is evergreen. Although uncommon, this is a specimen grown for its foliage effect, which is grey-green and covered in down. Hooded yellow flowers appear in June forming a ring around each stem. The leaves are very aromatic when crushed. Frost may pose a problem, so plant in a well drained sheltered spot. Phlomis fruticosa is the most hardy, it is low growing, reaching four feet in height, although it is fairly wide spreading in habit.
Holly, (Ilex) varieties make good specimen container subjects. Most hollies are evergreen, hardy and slow-growing, a decision must be made as to whether berries or leaf colour is to be given priority. If berries are important and only one shrub is to be grown, you must choose a self-fertile variety such as the red berried varieties of, Ilex altaclarensis 'J. C. Van Toll', or the column-shaped Ilex Aquifolium 'pyramidalis.' Yellow berries are borne on Ilex Aquifolium 'bacciflava.' For leaf colour plant Ilex Aquifolium 'silver milkboy' for its silver and white variegations. Why not grow holly without the spines, try Ilex Altaclarensis 'camelifolia' or 'camelifolia variegata' both have red berries. An interesting low-growing shrub is Ilex Aquifolium 'Ferox' known as the hedgehog holly because of its small spines on every leaf surface, silver and gold tints really enhance this little prickly beauty! Ilex Crenata 'mariesii' carries tiny round glossy leaves and black berries.
Bamboo has several dwarf varieties with colourful leaves. There grassy leaves and colourful seedheads will rustle in the breeze. Bamboo is evergreen. Look out for Arundinaria viridistriata. These plants may be listed under several different names, take care to get a miniature variety! This plant will add a spiky exotic look to the garden.
There are many grasses to choose from as they have become extremely popular over the last few years. They vary in colour and an ideal way of planting is to grow three small subjects in one pot that have different coloured seedheads.
Yucca is evergreen with a tropical appearance. It is hardy and it should bloom every few years. Yucca Filamentosa has stiff sword-like leaves and a for to six foot flowering stem in August. It might be a good idea to grow this plant in a pot of its own so that its tall stems bearing many white, scented cup-shaped flowers can be fully appreciated. The first flowers should appear about three years after planting. The ends of the leaves are quite sharp but do not let this deter you from trying it as they will not come off and stick in your fingers. It needs good drainage, growing happily in either sun or partial shade.
Almost all roses are suitable for container growing, particularly the patio and shrub varieties. Care must always be taken because of their thorns, it might be thought that the smaller the rose the less lethal the thorn, not so as I know to my cost! There are now several thornless varieties available, not forgetting the climber 'Zephrin Druin.'
Perennials play a very important role in any planting scheme. Alchemilla Mollis (lady's mantle) is a shade lover with round velvety pleated leaves. Astilbe has feathery flowers in Summer and also needs shade. Cranesbill geraniums are very reliable liking sun. Stachys Lanata (lamb's tongue) feels plush and smells aromatic in sunshine. Winter flowering hellebores (the Lenten and Christmas Roses) are reliable for brightening the season. The Juniper is a plant that will tolerate dry conditions. Juniperus Horizontalis 'glauca' is an ideal spreading or edging plant. It is evergreen, and when the leaves are crushed They release a woody scent. Box (buxus sempervirens) 'marginata' or 'suffruticosa' are both evergreen with variegated leaves and can be cut back when required. Hebes make ideal pot plants, there are several varieties but my choice would be hebe Pinguifolia 'Pageii, it is a low-growing rounded plant with round glossy leaves and white flowers in early Summer. It is not fussy about soil conditions as long as it is well drained. Any of these plants can be put together in a tub with shrubs, conifers or herbs or under planted with something trailing. Even add bedding plants during summer.
Rhododendron 'yakushimanum' is an acid-loving plant with leaves feeling like leather on the upper surface and suede beneath. This plant is slow in growth and low in height, needing an ericaceous compost and partial shade to do well. Erica (heather), particularly 'carnea' the Winter flowering type, is a little less fussy about needing acid soil, if it is given extra peat at planting time and a peat mulch annually, it will survive quite happily in a well-drained sunny spot. If the right varieties are chosen you can have heather in flower from January to April. The Bell Heather (Erica Cinerea) is in bloom from June to September. These species provide ground cover. If something a little taller is needed, erica vagans flowers from July to October. Erica Darleyensis blooms from November to April. The only care that they will need is to be trimmed lightly after the flowers have faded. There are many other acid-loving subjects that can be grown in pots, pieris, recognized for its red Spring colour and skimmia for scented Spring flowers and colourful berries. Camellias, lilies and azaleas can always be attempted if you have a little courage and give them the correct environment.
It is possible to grow trees in containers, as long as care is taken to choose species that are dwarf and will not outgrow their tubs or become starved of nutrients and water during hot Summers.
Acer Palmatum 'Dissectum atropurpureum' only grows to approximately three feet tall. Although it loses its leaves in Winter it more than makes up for this when the leaves take on their wonderful Autumnal colour before they fall. Acer Japonicum 'Aureum' has yellow leaves. These Japanese Maples need to be grown in a sheltered position in partial shade to prevent the finely divided leaves from scorching. Conifers will be invaluable for both Summer and Winter colour alike. Abies Koreana (the Korean fir) is slow to reach its maximum height and bears small blue cones from an early age. Abies arizonica 'compacta' is useful as is Thuja occidentalis 'rheingold' which as its name implies is a bright yellow and even changes its colour throughout the season. Thuja orientalis 'aurea nana' is also gold and makes an ideal plant for the front of a container. Both these conifers are scented. Chamaecyparis pisifera 'boulevard' is a tree I would not be without. It has soft foliage which twists between the fingers, giving off its pine scent.
Skimmia 'Reevesiana,' (with red berries), silver leaved lavender, bright green leaved Hebe 'Rakiensis', and green and cream leaved periwinkle 'vinca minor variegata. Another idea could combine: Pink berried Pernettya, erica 'springwood pink', silver leaved lamium 'white Nancy,' and white variegated ivy. Along with the crimson tinted leaves of bougenia. A third alternative might be: Polyanthus 'Crescendo red,' euonymus 'emerald and gold,' hebe pinguifolia pagei', and the Winter flowering erica 'springwood white.' An amalgamation of Ornamental kale with its white leaves, with narcissus tet a tete, creamy-yellow polyanthus and trailing ivy, will create a pleasing effect.
Because patio gardening has become such a popular hobby over the past few years, many growers have produced some of our well known trees on a dwarfing root stock creating miniature versions or standardised them onto a stem in either a trailing or upright habit. I have a really nice cotoneaster horizontalis which weeps down from about four feet that I underplant with bedding plants. Elm, hazel and willow have been similarly grafted so if you feel that you would like to follow the seasons of trees at a reachable height this might be nice. Salix capria 'pendula' the weeping willow or the corkscrew hazel sometimes known as Harry Lauder's walkingstick are reliable, just keep them well watered in hot weather.
It is possible to grow fruit in containers. Apples are the most widely grown fruit, always purchase a tree that has been grafted on to a dwarfing root stock, M27. The variety 'Greensleeves',is a good cropper and will grow to a maximum height of around six or seven feet. Ballerina apple trees grow on a single stem and will need very little pruning, but two trees will have to be planted to insure that pollination takes place. If there is not space for two separate trees, a family apple tree, having three trees on one plant will give a long season of interest and a successful apple crop. Cherry trees can also be grown successfully, if the pyxie dwarfing root stock is bought. A peach tree could be grown and perhaps trained along a wall or fence. If a fig tree is given a fairly sheltered position it will be quite an attention-grabber with its large leathery leaves. When growing fruit, make sure that large pots are used, if possible even half barrels, these trees will need to be kept fed and watered throughout the Summer. A fig is perhaps an exception to this as it will need practically no feeding at all. Cultivating these trees may involve a little more care and attention as pruning will need to be carried out, plus spraying against aphids and other flying and egg-laying predators. Advice on these areas of care and prevention can be given if necessary.
Tomatoes are good for growing in pots and hanging baskets too. Tumbler as its name implies, trails down from baskets and tubs and all you need to do is feed weekly with a dilute liquid tomato food when the first flowers appear and you will be rewarded with cherry sized fruit from late summer. Good bush tomatoes with an upright habit are 'gardeners delight' and 'sweet one hundred'.
There is no need to pinch out the growing tips just train the plants up canes tying gently with garden ties or twine and you should get sweet cherry tomatoes from late summer if you feed the plants in the same way. Cover the end of each cane with a cane cap to prevent injury to the eyes and face. You could, of course, have three plants in a grow bag on your patio. Just make drainage holes in the bottom of the bag and water and feed well. How about growing some miniature vegetables in pots? Cabbage, 'Greyhound' dwarf and compact with few outer leaves and a solid pointed head. Calabrese 'corbet' F1. Carrot, 'Amsterdam forcing' slender rooted with a good colour and excellent flavour. Cucumber, 'bush champion' is compact, plants give a good yield and flavour. It is resistant to the cucumber mosaic virus. Lettuce 'little gem' a koss type, crisp, small and sweet. Cauliflower, 'idol' early cropping mini vegetable with small white heads. As with fruit, care and cultivation ideas can be given, but extra watering and protection against pests, particularly slugs will be necessary.
I have not gone into too much detail on the care of these fruits and vegetables because I do not know whether they are going to play a major role in your planting scheme. It might be considered that the care they need outweighs their inclusion.
When a selection of plants has been put together for your patio garden, there are also more than enough to keep your garden borders stocked with lovely and interesting subjects for many years to come. before you make your choice and plant up the borders around a lawn, Make sure that your soil has been well dug and any turf or large stones removed. If you want to do any gardening yourself, may I suggest that your borders are no wider than six feet so that you can reach the centre from the lawn on one side or the path on the other. Before plants are put in, fork in 4 oz. per square yard of an organic fertilizer such as, blood, fish and bone or one of the many other granular fertilizers, to help get the plants off to a good start. Make sure that taller subjects are grown at the back of the border furthest from the patio, leaving space between the plants that you choose so that they have room to spread out as they grow, e.g. for something that is going to reach six feet in height and three feet wide, you should leave three to four feet of space on either side of it. Don't worry if the garden borders look a little bare between the taller plants initially, you can always add any of the low growing things, or have a summer bedding scheme to fill in the gaps until they become established. These trees and shrubs should be under planted with others from the above lists and path edges softened with some of the smaller ground cover or trailing plants. Less space need be left between smaller plants, just make sure that when the root balls of the plants are immersed in the soil, they are firmed in by pressing down with your hands on either side of the plant and watered to settle them in. I will leave you to choose which plants to try, mixing size, leaf colour and texture. As a general rule tall things are put at the back of a border but there is nothing to prevent you from planting taller in the centre of a border and then gradually coming down in size in front and behind. particularly if there is lawn on one side and path on the other. But you are in control here. What you plant in your garden is very personal and individually creative. It could be useful to use conifers as markers to denote footpath edges for orientation purposes. Wind chimes may be useful, hung from a tree at the far end of a lawn adjacent to a path that takes you back to the house. It is surprising that even though we think we know our gardens well, just how easy it is to get lost or disorientated when it is windy.
This collection of planting ideas has only scratched the surface of the fascinating world of horticulture. The joy of sowing, planting and caring for a garden is something that grows with time and experience. Every season brings its own surprise or two when plants and nature conspire both fore and against us! There are literally thousands more plants to grow, learn about, explore and enjoy, nurseries are always bringing out new varieties to suit different situations. The seasonal display need never be permanent. A great sense of satisfaction is derived from trying out new ideas. I can only hope that you enjoy your garden and have great success in growing some of these plants.
Good gardening.
Sue Pallett.
Click here to email Sue if you have any enquiries about accessible gardening.
Name: Carry On Gardening
URL: http://www.carryongardening.org.uk
Description:
This
is the place to go if you need information on how to continue with the hobby
after illness or injury, old age, or disability. It has links to other
gardening information sites. It is linked to the site that is now, Thrive,
formerly Horticultural Therapy.
Name: Working with Wildlife
URL: http://www.workingwithwildlife.co.uk/
Description:
It
is becoming imperative that we look after our wild life in our gardens at a time
when space is at a premium and the countryside is decreasing at an alarming
rate. Help create a small haven for our treasured feathered and furry friends
with some ideas from this site. It will keep you up to date with surveys on
nature and highlight forthcoming events.
Name: Gardening UK
URL: http://www.gardening-uk.co.uk
Description:
This
is the site to visit if you are planning any major garden design projects or
planting schemes as it lists landscape gardeners, garden centres and garden
equipment suppliers.
Name: HDRA The Organic Organisation
URL: http://www.hdra.org.uk
Description: Organic
gardeners are in for a treat here. There is everything you need to know. You
can even shop there too.
Name: Royal Horticultural Society
URL: http://www.rhs.org.uk/
Description: The
Royal Horticultural Society needs no introduction to those of us who are keen
gardeners. One can visit this site to find out about developments in the
gardening world or to sign up for courses for diplomas and
qualifications.
Name: Thompson & Morgan Plants Catalogue
URL: http://plants.thompson-morgan.com/uk/en/
Description:
Trees,
plants, shrubs and seeds can be yours to plant and grow in your own garden,from
this excellent British plant nursery. Have them delivered right to your door at
the right time of the year, in prime planting condition.
Name: Gone Gardening
URL: http://www.gonegardening.com/gg_shop/
Description:
Discover
the finest range of outdoor and leisure goods here! A UK shopping site to
buy from and browse through!
Name: BA Education's The Gardening Year page
URL: http://www.ba-education.demon.co.uk/for/gardening.html
Description:
Have
you ever wondered what grows best in your garden and in which month its best to
plant it? Well, look no further than here. You will find other useful links
too.
Name: THRIVE
URL: http://www.thrive.org.uk
Description: Thrive is a national UK charity whose aim is to enable
positive change in the lives of disabled and disadvantaged people through the
use of gardening and horticulture. They offer a lot of useful information
and events for blind & partially sighted gardeners, including a quarterly magazine 'Come Gardening' which it costs just £5 a year and is available in large print,
cassette, email, disc and Braille.
Name: David Austin Roses
URL: http://www.davidaustinroses.com/english/
Description: Here is just the place to go to find out about or buy one of England's most famous flowers, from the climbing to the dwarf varieties, all types of roses are here. This famous family-run Company is renowned for supplying these beautiful perennial plants to people all over the world. The information contained within these pages gives invaluable advice to all gardeners.
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copyright The Accessible Friends Network 2007. All text content on this page copyright Susan
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